North Tahoe Rim Relay

Hiked: 7/18/2023
Distance: 18.6 miles round trip on trail and cross country
Summit Elevation: Incline (9561'), Relay (10336'), Houghton (10490'), Rose Knob Peak (9710'), Rose Knob (9600')
Prominence: 759' (Houghton)
Elevation Gain: 4400'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 3.5
Round trip time: 9 hours 45 minutes
Recommended water: 132 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Incline Drive parking lot
Difficulty: Strenuous (combined)

My wife and I were in Incline Village on the north shore of Lake Tahoe for one of her work conferences. She had work events all day, so I planned a tour of five peaks around the north rim. This was the itinerary:

1. Incline Peak, NV (9561')
2. Relay Peak, NV (10336')
3. Mount Houghton, NV (10490')
4. Rose Knob Peak, NV (9710')
5. Rose Knob, NV (9600')

My start on Incline Road led me down a gentle slope to a junction with a solitary path that ascended the rim of North Tahoe. A wooden bridge crossed a lively stream, overfull and gurgling loudly. After crossing the bridge, I became aware of the mosquitos. Like tiny, buzzing specters, they would descend upon me in a swarm if I dared to rest for a moment. I had sought the protection of bug spray the day before, but to no avail. My only shield against the relentless onslaught was to don gloves and a bug net. The mosquitos, as persistent as they were, ceased their attack when I reached the 9300'. It was not the sun that deterred them, but the gradual retreat of the tree line. Before I reached the use trail to Incline Peak, I found my way barred by fields of snow, blanketing the trail like a white quilt. In the shade, these fields began as low as 8800', but they were easily circumvented. To reach the summit of Incline, I had to cross a larger snow field. But the snow was firm underfoot in the early morning, and the field was flat, so it posed no threat. None of the peaks I visited had registers or marks. The view from the high point of Incline was partially obscured by trees, but a short walk towards the lake revealed a panorama of beauty. Lake Tahoe, in all its grandeur, was a sight to behold. It was more precious in the moment, as my first visit two years prior had been obscured by a veil of heavy smoke so thick we could not see across. But now, the lake lay before me in all its glory.

Approaching Incline Peak

Descending from the heights of Incline, I set my course northward along the Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT), bound for Relay. The trail was carved into the north-facing slopes where I anticipated snow's lingering touch. Indeed, past Peak 9773, numerous snowfields had claimed the trail as their own. Tracks of those who had come before me guided my steps. Rock formations lined the trail, a siren's call to adventure. At the foot of Relay, two deep snowfields had swallowed the trail, but they were easily circumvented. The path to the summit was a series of long switchbacks, leading to a modest summit area crowned with a cairn of rocks. At the summit, my gaze wandered over the peaks that surrounded me. Mount Houghton stood in the distance, its prominence was a lure I could not ignore. It was but 1.3 miles away as the crow flies, or 1.75 miles by the winding trail. The snowfield on the northern side of Relay was unavoidable, but it was a gentle slope adorned with sun cups. The descent to the radio towers at the saddle, likely the namesake of Relay, was painless. Upon closer inspection, a lookout tower that once stood as part of the main structure had collapsed. I continued toward Houghton, dropping my pack about a half mile below the summit. Houghton sported the same modest summit cairn as Relay, which looked more pointed from this side. I had great views of Mount Rose and Church Peak, two summits Leisa and I completed on our previous visit. By the time I got back over Relay, it was nearing noon and the snow was getting soft. I put on microspikes for one snow crossing where the runout led 100' below to a thicket of trees. Back at the junction, I turned east for two more peaks along the rim.

The one potentially dangerous slope

Nearing Relay

Heading for Houghton

Houghton Summit

Looking back at Relay
My next destination was Rose Knob Peak. From my study of the topo, I anticipated a brief departure from the path. As I drew near, the peak revealed itself as a towering mound of large, reddish talus, rising hundreds of feet above the trail that cut across its midsection. I began my climb up the eastern ridge. The talus, for the most part, held firm beneath my feet, though I found myself using my hands for balance and support. I marked my arrival at the summit, then carefully made my way back down to the Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT), with the shimmering expanse of the lake now a constant companion. My final peak, Rose Knob, bore a name similar to its predecessor but was a tamer beast. Another mile along the trail, this peak offered an easy off-trail ascent. I made my way through a sea of soft, flowering plants to reach a nondescript summit, mostly encircled by trees. Here, I took my final rest, with only a single bottle of water remaining. Despite being over 9000 feet, the day had warmed, necessitating rationing of my water on the descent. I stuck to the trail, circling around Rose Knob Peak and passing Incline once more. Along the way, I met a fellow traveler, a through-hiker on the TRT on the fourth day of his expedition. From him, I learned that the TRT spanned a staggering 170 miles, more than twice the distance I had imagined. For the final stretch, I donned my bug net and gloves once more, my armor against the ever-present mosquitos.

Approaching Rose Knob Peak

Approaching Rose Knob

Mud Lake

A snow cave carved by a stream