Arc Dome, NV

Hiked: 7/16/2026
Distance: 14.6 miles round trip on trail
Summit Elevation: 11785' (Arc Dome), 11355' (North Arc Dome)
Prominence: 5214'
Elevation Gain: 4480'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 3.5
Round trip time: 8 hours 15 minutes
Recommended water: 132 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Columbine Campground
Difficulty: Strenuous

Arc Dome (DPS #9) is an ultra prominent peak in the middle of Nevada. I had driven to Bishop the day before and hit Iron Mountain in the White Mountains. The direct drive to Columbine Camp from Bishop was along Highway 6, then a series of two lane highways to Gabbs, NV. None of the small towns along the way had a gas station. That became a problem for me on the way out (see Gambling with Gas footnote below). From Gabbs, it was 30 miles of nicely graded dirt road on state route 844, then 11 miles of rougher road on NF-119. I missed a jog on NF-119 and went about 5 miles on the wrong road. This delayed my start. There was one stream crossing, about 2' deep. I was entertained on the drive in by a fast moving herd of pronghorn antelope, a pair of coyotes, and three wild horses in the sage.

The trail quickly split into east and west trails. The trails converge on the crest, but I took the west trail since it went through an aspen grove. There were a lot of downed trees across the trail and tall wet grass that soaked my legs from the knees down. After a mile, I passed through an open fence and was out of the forest. The rest of the hike was on immense, sweeping plains. It made the gain easier, but distances hard to eyeball. This section was along the Toiyabe Crest Trail (TCT). I didn't see Arc Dome until I was closer to the crest. The trail made a sharp turn east to avoid a 1500' drop into a canyon. There were two signs down at the TCT intersection with the Arc Dome trail. Rumor has it that wild horses knock these down. I continued toward Arc Dome and took a short side trip off trail to North Arc Dome where I discovered a register.

Pronghorn herd crossing the road, Arc Dome behind

Wild horses

Stream crossing

Toiyabe Crest Trail

First glimpse of Arc Dome

I angled down from North Arc Dome to the trail as it dropped 600' to the saddle. The last mile was a 1000' gain. Though not visible on the approach, the trail switchbacks were masterful and made the ascent easier than expected. Kudos to the trail builders. The summit had two reference marks (stamped Toiyabe Dome), but the benchmark was missing. The register was in a plastic jar and had ascents from earlier in July. It seemed quite popular. The views were chef's kiss, amazingly green. I hauled the drone up, but the wind was steady 20-25mph and I decided not to fly. After a brief stay for rituals, I started down. The trail gained 600' on the return. Back at the TCT intersection, I met the only other person I saw all day. He was headed for Arc Dome and had backpacking gear. I considered going for Cirque Peak and descending the east trail, but I had other concerns. I had been doing the mental math on my gas situation and knew I could not make it back to Bishop. So, I decided to save time and descended the way I came up. It was a tough and tiring day with the drive tacked on, but worth it. I don't know if there is a more beautiful area in Nevada.

Gambling with Gas

My MO was to fill up the truck before driving deep into the wilderness. It turned out the most direct route from Bishop to the trailhead had zero gas stations, so I couldn't do that. Based on how far Google Maps was showing Columbine Campground, I thought I had enough gas to get back to Bishop. Well, the driving route was not quite right, and I drove by a turn off, wasting time and precious gas. When I arrived at the trailhead, I saw that I could not make it back to Bishop without extra gas. There was none on the way, and several stretches of road had no cell service. I paid careful attention on the drive out to make sure I didn't make any wrong turns. I also turned off 4x4. When I got back to Gabbs, I had one bar of service. Google said the closest gas was in Middlegate, about 30 miles in the opposite direction of Bishop. On the map, it looked like another tiny town with few if any services. My other choice was Hawthorne, which looked bigger, but if I struck out there, I could not reach another town. I chose Middlegate, knowing I would have one last chance to find gas if it was a bust. I set my cruise at 60mph to squeeze a couple extra miles out of my tank. My heart sank when I pulled into Middlegate Station. There was a bar, but the two 1970s style gas pumps in the yard looked like relics. There was no self serve payment system and the gauge was analog. I walked inside and asked the bartender if they had gas. He said yes. I was instructed to fill up, then take a photo of the gauge and come back to pay. When the gauge dials started to spin, I felt suddenly elated. Now I had plenty of gas and no worries about loss of cell service. I stayed at the bar for a beer and dumped whatever cash I had on me into a donation jar for a local family. It was a bonus adrenaline rush I didn't need, but will never forget.

Would you like to know more...?

Iron Mountain Mono County

Hiked: 7/15/2026
Distance: 5.8 miles round trip on dirt road and cross country
Summit Elevation: 9535'
Elevation Gain: 1187'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 0.7
Round trip time: 3 hours
Recommended water: 40 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free on Crooked Creek Road
Difficulty: Moderate (drive, scramble)

The second highest Iron Mountain in CA was in the eastern White Mountains, Mono County. This one was very remote and required about 20 miles of dirt road driving. The first 11 miles of the drive was on White Mountain Road, only six miles from the White Mountain trailhead. Then, another ~9 miles on Crooked Creek Road. The road followed the creek and there were a half dozen shallow stream crossings. The road was not too bad, but had some rough spots and a couple of boulders. 4x4 recommended. I stopped at a turnout about 1.7 miles from the end of the road. On the drive in, I managed to scrape a boulder at a bad angle and broke the weld on the rear passenger predator step. I'll probably just remove the steps since we don't use them much.

Having driven in from SoCal, it was late afternoon when I started hiking. I continued to the end of the road, then started across open country and low scrub. This Iron Mountain was a rounded jumble of reddish-brown talus. The scramble was class 2 on mixed size rocks. I found the benchmark and some old wooden posts, but no register. Views in this part of the White Mountains were limited. As the afternoon waned, big clouds rolled in, some with dark centers. While driving out, a few fat raindrops pelted my windshield, but it never rained. I checked into the Best Western in Bishop and got prepared for a much bigger day on Arc Dome.

Spotlight on Lone Pine Peak driving north on 395

Iron Mountain

Looking east

Shadow of a giant cloud

Big Tenaja Peak

Hiked: 6/26/2026
Distance: 3.6 miles round trip on road and cross country
Summit Elevation: 2905'
Prominence: 776'
Elevation Gain: 920'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 0.7
Round trip time: 3 hours 30 minutes
Recommended water: 32 oz.
Parking/Fees: Adventure Pass at Tenaja trailhead
Difficulty: Moderate (heavy bushwhack, route finding, scramble)

Eric Su contacted me the day before to see if I was interested in climbing Big Tenaja (Peak 2905) on the east side of the Santa Ana Mountains. We agreed to meet at the Tenaja trailhead. Big Tenaja had no documented ascents in Peakbagger or Lists of John. Eric wanted to start in the dark to catch the sunrise over the marine layer. The pre-dawn coolness also reduced our chances of running into rattlesnakes. We both attributed the lack of ascents to the moat of dense brush and large boulders. We used Eric's proposed route going directly up the southwest slope. I put on my ratty hiking clothes saved just for such occasions and left the OC at 3:00 AM in order to meet at our 4:30 AM start. The marine layer was thick on Tenaja Road, slowing the final drive to 10mph. Darkness and fog combined to reduce my line of sight to about 15'. We walked about half a mile down Tenaja Road before ducking through a fence and starting the bushwhack. The brush was light at first with some open areas, then heavy brush and trees towered overhead. Eric led the way, navigating by GPS in the general direction of the summit. I followed with lightweight Fisker loppers, cutting branches to ease the ascent and leaving markers for the return trip. Half way up, we started hitting large granite boulders. Most were class 2-3, some class 4. I routed around class 4 with one exception: a large boulder/tree move where Eric pulled me up. As dawn seeped into the forest, we put headlamps away. With a couple hundred vert to go, I slowed down, but we were through the worst of the brush. There was a chance the summit boulder was going to be class 5, but we found it was a bulky, 20' class 2 slab. Still, I had to make use of a small manzanita tree to get onto the slab. On top, we were on one of several islands above the clouds. After photos, we started down, trying to follow our ascent path. Eric had an uncanny knack for route finding, while I needed to rely on the GPS since it all looked different to me. We got down safely with a few scratches for souvenirs and without seeing another person. It was a wild adventure, and one I would never have attempted on my own.

Summit block

Descending back into the soup

Big Tenaja

Dunderberg Peak

Hiked: 6/20/2026
Distance: 5.6 miles round trip on trail and cross country
Summit Elevation: 12363'
Prominence: 1330'
Elevation Gain: 3155'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 2.5
Round trip time: 6 hours 30 minutes
Recommended water: 80 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Virginia Lakes trailhead
Difficulty: Strenuous

On our second hiking day in the northern Sierra, we aimed for something bigger. Dunderberg Peak (SPS #152) was a local 12er. It's high enough to dominate the view south from Bridgeport. We were in no rush to start and arrived at the Virginia Lakes trailhead around 8:30 AM. It was cool and sunny, great weather for the steep climb to Dunderberg. There were two popular routes. The route from the east goes over the East summit. It is longer with more gain, but less steep. The route I chose was the SE ridge from Virginia Lakes going by Moat Lake. That route was shorter, but steeper, with loose, basketball sized talus. We didn't know what we were getting into. We took the trail for about a mile, went by Blue Lake, then followed a good use trail to Moat Lake. We were greeted by swarms of gnats and had to wave them off as we passed by. From the end of the lake, our plan was to climb the talus to the SE ridge. From our perspective, we took what looked like the least steep angle up. We gained about 440' before Leisa wisely decided it was too dangerous. Every rock had to be tested, most were loose. Leisa called them wobbly little liars. We descended in parallel to avoid knocking rocks on each other. Back at Moat Lake, Leisa opted to continue on trail to the deeper lakes and I, foolishly, decided to continue up (with her OK).

Dunderberg from the trailhead

Blue Lake

Moat Lake

Starting up

Where we turned around
On the way down, I spotted a use trail a little further east and headed for it. When I got there, I discovered a dirt and gravel trail that was too steep to ascend. It was literally, one step forward, one step back. I had move back onto the talus to make upward progress. Just before the ridge, there were some pine trees that I leveraged. I had hope the ridge proper would be better packed and easier. But no, it was the same loose talus all the way to the top. The ridge offered great views of Gilman Lake and East Lake to the north. The final mile gained 1800'. Every step had to be tested. A short 100' section of the ridge had a class 3 rock band that gave some relief from the talus. I took frequent breaks to keep my heart rate in line and progress was slow. It was both soul and quad crushing. After reaching the false summit, I found a use trail where the rocks had been pressed down. It was only a 100' gain from there. The summit had an ammo box with the SPS register. The views were powerful in all directions. I completed my summit rituals quickly, including sending a Garmin mini text to Leisa, then started down. It was every bit as slow and painful going down. I held onto the pines at the saddle and plunge stepped the scree I couldn't use going up. The one mile round trip from Moat Lake took 3 hours. The trail descent went quickly. At 3:00 PM, Leisa had been waiting for me and was getting concerned. She drove a mile away from the trailhead to get cell reception. She got my Garmin text, and replied, but I was not expecting it and didn't notice. I arrived back at the trailhead at 3:10 PM and found her car gone. After searching the lot twice, I realized she was really gone. I thought maybe she had visited another area not far away and started walking down the road. Before I was off the dirt road, I saw her drive up. We exchanged stories to sort out the confusion, but neither of us were in a great mood. We drove back to Bridgeport and got large soft serves at Jolly Kone. I was in a much better mood after. This was a one and Dunderberg.

Leisa shot this from Moat Lake

Lakes to northeast from the ridge

Ugh

Approaching the false summit

Summit ahead

Looking southwest

East summit and Mono Lake

Descent hell