Monday, November 25, 2019

Elder North Redux

First Ascent
Hiked: 11/24/2019
Distance: 3.7 miles round trip cross country
Summit Elevation: 3482'
Prominence: 600'
Elevation Gain: 2063'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 1.5
Round trip time: 6 hours 10 minutes
Recommended water: 92 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Salvador Canyon (off road)
Difficulty: Strenuous (class 5 summit, route finding)

One week to the day after my first attempt, I returned to Elder North for another round. This time, I conquered it. A first ascent of the Elder North true summit. I made several gear improvements: 40m static rope, ankle gaiters to keep foxtails out, water and food dialed in for the effort. In addition, I tuned the route to avoid the worst areas and tried to minimize energy expenditure on the way up. The route was much improved. I focused on the navigation and didn't take any photos until I was almost at the saddle below the summit.









Elder North from Elder BM (taken in 2018)

It was easier getting to the summit area since I had previously solved the boulder puzzles along the way. I flaked out the rope and got a good throw on the first try. The extra 10m really gave me options on the other side. There were one or two boulders that might have worked but I found a bomber 6" diameter tree about 90' below the summit block. I'm not sure what kind of tree it was but it had major branches on each side to keep the anchor from slipping. Back on top, I used two Prusiks to ascend the rope. I'm not sure this block can be climbed without aid because it is basically glued kitty litter, coming apart wherever it was touched. I was delighted to reach the summit and straddle the block. It was only about 2' wide where the rope went over and the weight of the rope on the far side exerted a small tug on me. I didn't want to stand up. The block got a little wider toward the pointy end. It wasn't safe for a register so I left the ammo box down below. I took a few photos with my phone and Ricoh 360 cam before connecting my belay device to rappel. I was relieved to get back on the ground where I went about signing in again and packing up the gear. The return trip was uneventful. It was only a six hour effort, but the first ascent of Elder North was probably my greatest solo mountaineering achievement so far. I don't think I could have executed any better.




Summit high above








First!


The rest of the summit block


Long drop to the anchor


Ascent side




Relieved to be down




This mountain has teeth


A line of parachutes over Borrego Springs




Green is the jeep trail path to Salvador Canyon

See Also:
Elder North (first attempt)
Elder North (Eric Su)
Elder North (Richard Carey)

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