Sunday, May 26, 2019

Mighty Rabbit East Ridge Loop

Desert Peaks Section Emblem Peak
Hiked: 5/24/2019
Distance: 21.5 miles round trip cross county, use trail, and trail
Summit Elevation: 6640' (Rabbit), 4853' (Zosel), 4485' (Crab), 2795' (Dawn)
Prominence: 1200' (Rabbit)
Elevation Gain: 7628'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 6.1
Round trip time: 20 hours
Recommended water: 254 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free on Fillmore Street
Difficulty: Very Strenuous

Henry and I had been discussing doing a big hike for months, looking for the right hike and an overlap in availability. We had tentatively agreed on the southwest ridge of Big Iron, but Henry was leaning toward Rabbit Peak by the Salton Sea. Rabbit had long been on my wish list, but was overshadowed by the San Diego List for the six years it took me to finish it. Rabbit is usually done as a two day backpack. Jerry Schad recommends that in his authoritative book. Of course, Henry and I were going to day hike it, and agreed to ascend the east ridge, a tough 18 mile route by itself. But "Hardcore Henry" pushed for a longer loop descending a ridge near Villager to pick up 3 additional benchmarks:
  • Zosel BM
  • Crab BM
  • Dawn BM
The difference was about 3 extra miles and 1000' of gain. I picked him up in Riverside at 2:00 AM and we drove to the trailhead in a lemon grove at the end of Fillmore Street. The trailhead is actually below sea level. The loop was mostly cross country with one section of good trail between Rabbit and the descent ridge. I knew it would be an endurance test, but it ended up testing us in many ways.

We marched out at 3:45 AM with headlamps and gibbous moonlight. After walking half a mile through lemon groves, we reached the "flat" desert approach to Rabbit. The flat part is about 3.3 miles in Barton Canyon. It is braided with washes and large rocks that make it slow and difficult. Some cairns were placed with white rocks that stand out at night easing part of the ordeal. After 90 minutes, the headlamps were no longer needed, but it took us a full 3 hours to get out of the canyon and start up the ridge. We found a decent use trail to gain the ridge crest that ended in a class 2 section below a flat area. At around 3300', we began 2000' of sustained and steep class 2. It was a long, grueling section of ridge. Above that was a short, brushy, class 3 traverse around a prominent outcrop. Henry ended up going over the top of it, while I scrambled around below. The final section was crossing a couple of false summits, arriving at the broad summit plateau. We found boulders that make up the apparent high point, but didn't find the HPS register there. Instead, we found it at another set of boulders not far away, but clearly not the high point. The view east down to the Salton Sea was blocked by trees and I had to move closer to the western side to see the great views into Clark Valley. It took us 7 hours to reach the summit, at least an hour more than expected. We spent another 30 minutes loitering and signing the register. Henry and I both thought the descent ridge we planned would be safer than returning down the east ridge. I had bars from Verizon, so I texted my wife that we would be later than expected not knowing that we had severely underestimated the time required for the descent ridge.




Rabbit in the golden hour from the boulder filled "flat" section of Barton Canyon


400' in 1/6 mile


Finishing up the easy part of the east ridge




Lost a fight with catclaw






Scrambling up the class 3 section


Henry going over the top of the obstacle


Another false summit, but getting close




The HPS summit








After fresh coats of sunscreen, we dropped 800' from Rabbit to the Santa Rosa ridge toward Villager. Views on this ridge are phenomenal. To reach the descent ridge, we endured 3 miles of undulating bumps, almost reaching Villager Peak. After climbing to Rabbit, these bumps were unwelcome. As we started down our descent ridge, we startled a quail with a dozen or so tiny hatch-lings. They scattered quickly, following their mom into hiding. The ridge was mostly open, unclogged with brush or other obstacles. A pleasant surprise. It wasn't as fast as a trail, but we made reasonable time moving down the gentle slope. I had loaded GPS waypoints making it easy to find Zosel benchmark, then Crab benchmark. Both had registers with few signatures, especially Crab with a register stuffed in a 35mm film canister. As the late afternoon daylight started to cast shadows, I wished the ridge was dropping faster. Half of the 5000' drop to Barton Canyon came at the end and we would end up doing it in the dark.


Toro about 13 miles away, looks like a Bob Ross painting






Coyote Mountain far below


Dropping onto the descent ridge


The east ridge of mighty Rabbit







The final benchmark we visited was Dawn. This is where I ran out of water, a consequence of misjudging the time required. Henry brought more than he needed (as he usually does) and shared some. He reminded me this wasn't the first time he had bailed me out and I acknowledged the dire straits I would have been in otherwise. We found no register at Dawn, but knowing what was ahead, unpacked our headlamps and hurried down as fast as we could. The setting sun was partially blocked by the Santa Rosa ridge, leaving us in a long, lingering twilight. We tried to get off the ridge before nightfall, but it didn't happen. Instead, we had about 2 miles of the steepest part of ridge left when it got dark. In the last gasps of light, a bighorn darted down the ridge below us, but it was too dark for a photo. Just after that, my headlamp fell off and broke open, spilling its 3 triple AAAs into the dirt. I was only able to find 2. No problem, I had a strong backup handheld flashlight and deployed it immediately. Meanwhile, Henry's phone had died trying to record our epic GPS track. Also, his rechargeable headlamp was toast from the early morning. No problem, he had a backup handheld light as well. So far, so good. The final drop off the ridge was very steep and both of us took short slides. We worked our way very slowly to the canyon, dropping in about a mile from our entry track. We worked our way back, dipping in and out of 20' gullies and stumbling over boulders. With a couple miles left, my flashlight went dark. No problem, I always pack spare batteries. Score one for battery operated devices. With one mile to go, Henry's rechargeable light went dim, but it managed to eek out weak illumination the rest of the way. We would have been seriously in trouble without light. We got back to the truck at 11:45 PM utterly pooped. It was a 13 hour descent from Rabbit and 20 hours truck to truck. Still technically a day hike, 20 hours from 3:45 AM to 11:45 PM! At the park and ride on the way back, Henry and I both took naps before driving the rest of the way home.


Still 3000' up, not dropping fast enough


Dawn before dusk




Here comes the night




Step count from phone is not accurate but shows almost continuous activity the whole day

Would you like to know more...?

See Also:
Estimated Energy to hike Rabbit East Ridge Loop

Monday, May 13, 2019

San Mateo Peak Loop

Hiked: 5/12/2019
Distance: 7 miles round trip on trail
Summit Elevation: 3591'
Elevation Gain: 1139'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 0.9
Round trip time: 3 hours 30 minutes
Recommended water: 48 oz.
Parking/Fees: Adventure Pass at Morgan Trailhead
Difficulty: Easy

This was my fourth trip to San Mateo Peak, but first trip attempting the loop route, and first trip with hiking legend Ben Baumann. Ben was working on the Sierra Club Lower Peaks List (and only had five to go on the HPS). His reports were instrumental during my pursuit of the San Diego List. I had created a GPS track in Caltopo.com along what I thought were public roads though the ranch community to the east. Instead, I led us through some private back yards, but we weren't hassled. A better route through the community is to take Monterey Road to El Dorado Road to Gaucho Road to the trail. An image of this route is posted at the end of the report. I was very engaged talking all things hiking with Ben so I didn't take many photos. I filled in the gaps from another San Mateo hike I did two weeks ago. I think I have now documented all of the plastic dinosaurs on the route. Before we reached the summit, I led us down a side canyon heading for a cool looking outcrop of boulders, but called it off when the bushwhacking effort exceeded the value of getting there. Maybe another time. We reached the summit from the south and rested a bit on the summit boulder. The weather was blue skies and sunshine, a complete flip from the forecast only a few days earlier. It's noteworthy because weather forecasts have gotten pretty reliable in recent years and a complete miss is unusual. When we got back to the trailhead, Ben found a tick crawling on him. We both did quick tick scans without finding any. I did find one in my truck on the drive home, but was clean otherwise. With great summit views, San Mateo remains pretty high on my list of favorite Lower Peaks.


Trail leading out of the community




Grassy field south of the peak


Highest summit boulder


Ben at the summit sign and register

Plastic Dinosaurs encountered going clockwise


This is a bonus dinosaur down the trail toward Tenaja Falls


San Mateo Peak from 4/29/2019




This is a better path through the community

See Also:
San Mateo Peak

Friday, May 10, 2019

Eagle Rock and Seek Benchmark

Hiked: 5/10/2019
Distance: 7.6 miles round trip on trail and cross country
Summit Elevation: 3520' (Eagle Rock), 3348' (Seek)
Elevation Gain: 985'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 0.7
Round trip time: 2 hours 45 minutes
Recommended water: 48 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Warner Springs Community Center
Difficulty: Easy

With rain threatening half the state, I looked for a shorter hike and settled on Eagle Rock and Seek Benchmark. Eagle Rock is an interesting feature along the PCT in San Diego County. I parked at the Warner Springs Community Center where a big "Welcome PCT Hikers" banner was on display. I followed the trail through three metal gates along a smooth trail next to a creek. I passed thru hikers about every 10 minutes, all looking strong at this stage of their journey. There was very little gain on the way, with only gentle ups and downs. Spring growth was raging with high green grass under the large oaks. Further along, the trail left the creek and desert manzanita and sparse brush took over. From afar, Eagle Rock looks like any random pile of boulders. However, when you reach the northeast side, they take the form of a giant eagle. I set my camera up for a shot, but nearly cut off the top. I'm such an amateur photographer. I climbed up the right shoulder to get a shot riding it, Lord of the Rings style. The trip to Eagle Rock took a little over an hour, and since my luck was holding out with the rain, I headed back intent on finding the Seek Benchmark.






Approaching the Eagle Rock formation




Fly like an eagle







Seek Benchmark appeared to be only a quarter mile off trail. It started through deep grass that thinned out almost immediately. I was surprised to find footprints in the sand and some good animal trails heading sort of in the right direction. On the first low ridge, I followed a firebreak too far and had to come back and cross another field of deep grass. Foxtails were a minor annoyance as I waded through the grass. It soon became a GPS exercise and I am not sure I would have found Seek on the next low ridge without it. Reference mark number 1 was almost on top of the triangulation mark, a metal pole, and a register in yellow cans. The register was placed in 1997 but only three pages had been filled. I took a picture of all the pages. Another seldom visited point. Eric Newcomb was the last one to visit in April. Following a short break, I worked my way back to the trail. With little elevation change and no major obstacles, it was enjoyable, and probably the easiest hike I've done all year.


Leaving the trail towards Seek






Looking back toward the trail and Hot Springs Mountain lost in the clouds








Horses are allowed on trail, but not bikes