Lily Rock and Suicide Rock

Hiked: 7/14/2019
Distance: 7 miles round trip on trail, use trail, and cross country
Summit Elevation: 8000' (Lily), 7528' (Suicide)
Elevation Gain: 3720'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 3.0
Round trip time: 6 hours 15 minutes
Recommended water: 88 oz.
Parking/Fees: Adventure Pass at Humber Park
Difficulty: Strenuous (combined)

I knew I wanted to climb Lily Rock (aka Tahquitz Rock) after looking down on it from Marion Mountain. It is a giant chunk of granite with popular rock climbing routes. There is a hikers trail that goes up to a saddle behind it, followed by a class 3 scramble for the summit. It was a last minute thing so I didn't do much planning. From Humber Park at 6:45 AM, I descended to the Ernie Maxwell trail and took it to the ascent gully about a half mile down trail. Along the way, I passed several climbers' trails marked with pink ribbon. The ascent gully had some cairns, and use trails branching off on both sides. I stayed left above the gully and hiked through a lot of dead trees. The slope was very steep and loose. I might have done better in the gully. I reached the right side of the saddle and did a short down climb to get to the base of the summit looming 160' above. I explored left then right, blazing my own route through a dead tree and up a curved block with a 2' crack. Next was a very exposed move across the crack to a big slab. The holds were solid and after a short pause to absorb the adrenaline hit, I continued up to the summit. I found a cement marker on top reading "HI 10" (?) and great views all around, but no register. I could hear climbers yelling to each other on the vertical face below, but didn't see anyone. I looked for an easier way down and followed a low class 3 gully which would have been the left side going up. It was much better, with only a single exposed 4' ledge past a bush. The 4' ledge was slightly angled down and there was a down climb there if you prefer not to cross it. I learned later this was the main route. I returned across the saddle and started plunge stepping down. While it was 2 steps forward, 1 back going up, it was 2 steps down then slide another step going down. At around 7500', I took a big step directly over a curled rattlesnake. Another adrenaline shot. It was thankfully still cool out and I was under full shade. The snake moved slowly and evenly uphill toward a tree, not bothering to rattle a warning. It was a juvenile probably waiting for the sun to break through the pines. The rest of the descent was low drama and I returned to the truck to reset for a trip to Suicide Rock. By this time, the parking lot was full.

Lily Rock (Tahquitz Rock), a gorgeous hunk of granite

Start of Ernie Maxwell trail

Ascent gully

Lily Rock from the saddle

Tahquitz Peak from the saddle

Blue route is standard, I went up the yellow route

Through the dead tree

Up this rock with the crack

Across the gap to the final slab, good hold below not visible

Consequences of a fall

Summit cement mark

Looking down on Suicide Rock below

Southern pacific rattlesnake I stepped over

Summit and snake

360 view from Lily Rock summit
The official trail to Suicide Rock is about 7 miles long, but I had read about a short climbers trail that drops off the side of the road not far below Humber Park. I took a break at the truck then followed the paved road down by three green water tanks. I found a small "climber trail" sign and dropped down the trail to cross the creek. It emerged onto a private paved road (with hike through granted), then turned into a dirt road and finally a single track below Suicide Rock. The trail is unmaintained and several other use trails splinter off. I just continued up. As you approach the tall granite slabs, the trail has sections of class 2. Here the trail goes right and follows below the slabs. I passed multiple parties climbing various routes. As the slabs end, you reach the ridge and intersect the main trail. I took the main trail to the look out point with fantastic views. Then, I followed a use trail to the less impressive summit with small boulders, surrounded by trees. I returned down the climbers trail, then back up the road to the truck. Since I parked at the top of the Humber Park circle, I added some unnecessary gain to both hikes. Each hike alone was moderate, but combined added up to pretty solid day.

On the trail below the Suicide slabs

Two climbers on route

Lily Rock and Tahquitz Peak from the lookout

Summit of Suicide Rock

Looking up toward San Jacinto

New plate is easier to understand than the old one