Elder North Redux

First Ascent
Hiked: 11/24/2019
Distance: 3.7 miles round trip cross country
Summit Elevation: 3482'
Prominence: 600'
Elevation Gain: 2063'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 1.5
Round trip time: 6 hours 10 minutes
Recommended water: 92 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Salvador Canyon (off road)
Difficulty: Strenuous (class 5 summit, route finding)

One week to the day after my first attempt, I returned to Elder North for another round. This time, I conquered it. A first ascent of the Elder North true summit. I made several gear improvements: 40m static rope, ankle gaiters to keep foxtails out, water and food dialed in for the effort. In addition, I tuned the route to avoid the worst areas and tried to minimize energy expenditure on the way up. The route was much improved. I focused on the navigation and didn't take any photos until I was almost at the saddle below the summit.

Elder North from Elder BM (taken in 2018)

It was easier getting to the summit area since I had previously solved the boulder puzzles along the way. I flaked out the rope and got a good throw on the first try. The extra 10m really gave me options on the other side. There were one or two boulders that might have worked but I found a bomber 6" diameter tree about 90' below the summit block. I'm not sure what kind of tree it was but it had major branches on each side to keep the anchor from slipping. Back on top, I used two Prusiks to ascend the rope. I'm not sure this block can be climbed without aid because it is basically glued kitty litter, coming apart wherever it was touched. I was delighted to reach the summit and straddle the block. It was only about 2' wide where the rope went over and the weight of the rope on the far side exerted a small tug on me. I didn't want to stand up. The block got a little wider toward the pointy end. It wasn't safe for a register so I left the ammo box down below. I took a few photos with my phone and Ricoh 360 cam before connecting my belay device to rappel. I was relieved to get back on the ground where I went about signing in again and packing up the gear. The return trip was uneventful. It was only a six hour effort, but the first ascent of Elder North was probably my greatest solo mountaineering achievement so far. I don't think I could have executed any better.

Summit high above

First!

The rest of the summit block

Long drop to the anchor

Ascent side

Relieved to be down

This mountain has teeth

A line of parachutes over Borrego Springs

Green is the jeep trail path to Salvador Canyon

See Also:
Elder North (first attempt)
Elder North (Eric Su)
Elder North (Richard Carey)

Cahuilla Mountain and Coahuila Benchmark

HPS Star Emblem Peak
Hiked: 11/22/2019
Distance: 6.3 miles round trip on trail
Summit Elevation: 5635' (Cahuilla), 5604' (Coahuila)
Prominence: 1555' (Cahuilla)
Elevation Gain: 1541'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 1.2
Round trip time: 3 hours
Recommended water: 32 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free on Juan Diego Flats Road (6S22)
Difficulty: Easy

Cahuilla is #221 on the Sierra Club HPS list, meeting the criteria of being over 5000' and in the southern half of California. Its P1K status was more interesting to me. I had driven by Cahuilla several times this year on the way toward Idyllwild. There are two miles of dirt road to reach the trailhead and it gets a little rutted toward the end. High clearance recommended. The trail started off gently and was well maintained. After some switchbacks, I passed under the Coahuila Benchmark, saving it for the return. Good views of San Jacinto, the divide, and the local area are available most of the way on the left side (right coming down). There were three distinct vegetation zones. San Diego desert scrub at the bottom, oaks and maples in the middle, and manzanita and pines toward the top. There were a few patches of snow in the shade. Views from the summit were limited by tree cover. The ammo box held several nearly filled registers, attesting to the popularity and accessibility of this mountain. I would call it family friendly. On the way down, I left the trail below Coahuila and looked for a use trail. Not finding anything clear, I pushed through about 50' of light brush before it opened up. I found two reference marks and the Coahuila benchmark. Oddly, one of the reference marks was higher. I didn't find a register on Coahuila, but I might have missed it. Views were better (360 degrees) from Coahuila. I cruised back to the truck in short order. A brief but pleasant outing.

Cahuilla from highway 371

Start of the trail

Snow dusted Tahquitz and San Jacinto

Summit ammo box

Coahuila is the closer bump

Weird pole with a spring

Looking back at Cahuilla Mountain

View from Coahuila summit

Coahuila benchmark

Elder North

Hiked: 11/17/2019
Distance: 3.6 miles round trip cross country
Summit Elevation: 3482'
Prominence: 600'
Elevation Gain: 1942'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 1.5
Round trip time: 6 hours 10 minutes
Recommended water: 92 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at Salvador Canyon (off road)
Difficulty: Strenuous (class 5 summit, route finding)

Elder North is a spiky peak with good prominence near Elder Benchmark in Collins Valley. I've wanted to bag it since climbing Elder in 2018. It required a long off road drive on jeep trails to the mouth of Salvador Canyon. About an hour once you leave pavement from DiGiorgio Road in Borrego Springs. Then, a hard, steep boulder scramble with no trail to the summit with all 1900'+ of gain compressed into one mile. Capped off with a class 5.9 15' decomposing sandstone summit block. Before my trip, there were 3 ascents listed in Peakbagger and Lists of John. Two of those reported they did not attempt the summit block. The third left no report. I packed minimal rope gear and estimated my odds of getting the summit block at 50%.

Salvador Canyon was further into Collins Valley than I had ever been. I took the dirt road into Coyote Canyon, passed two water crossings, boulder alley, and continued on the main road over deep sand to the terminus at Salvador Canyon. The turn off for Middle Willows would take you further. 4x4 may not be necessary, but high clearance is. After parking, I headed up Salvador Canyon, easy going at first. About half a mile up canyon, I started up the ridge. Scrambling and route finding were difficult and occasional bushwhacking necessary. Slight differences in route can magnify the effort. I was loosely following Richard Carey's track from peakbagger. After picking my way up the lower ridge, I sidehilled around a false summit and drifted down toward the major gully. I should have stayed higher on the shoulder. Instead I got myself into some serious bouldering problems before reaching the saddle below the summit.

Collins Benchmark dead ahead, Square Top far left

Elder North not visible from the start, hidden behind the bump

Starting up the ridge

False summit was passed on the right

Looking down into Salvador Canyon

From the saddle, I followed a ledge system running SE to NW. Near the top of the ledge, there was one exposed move that I bypassed by going through a small tree. The final section is a short gully leading to the summit area. Views of the surrounding area were amazing. There are several house sized boulders littering the summit. The highest point was a 15' chossy block on top of an multi-story apartment sized boulder. It was well beyond my climbing ability. Before dealing with the block, I attended to other summit business. I located the register in a glass jar inside a small red can. It was signed by the party that placed it, Richard Carey and Shelley Rogers, and no one else. I signed it and placed the jar and can inside an upgraded ammo box I brought with me. I left a second register book I had prepared in case I could not find the original. I ate half the sandwich I had since I hadn't really taken a break on the way up other than to remove foxtails or rocks from my boots. Two faces of the highest summit block were accessible. The other sides dropped over a precipice. I unpacked my rope and realized I brought the wrong one.

First view of the summit

A ledge runs diagonally left to right

Looking down from the ledge

The summit block

Collins Benchmark

Toro Peak

Elder Benchmark

The lone register entry

Upgraded register container

I have two orange ropes, one static (40m), one dynamic (30m). This block required the static rope for aid, but I brought the dynamic one. Oops. I forged ahead and tossed one end over the block. It didn't come close to reaching the ground on the other side. My second throw used most of the rope but it was in reach about 60-70' below the summit. I went down the gully below the summit to grab the rope and look for anchors. None of the rocks in the area were usable. The best thing I found was a 4" diameter juniper tree. It was alive, but growing in the sandy soil. I attached the rope to it using 1" webbing. I returned to the summit and weighted it. It held but the rope stretched a good 3' with weight on it. Counterproductive. I had planned to use a prusik to ascend, but ultimately, decided I could not trust the anchor. Maybe I would have continued with the static rope or had better anchor options since it was longer. It was disappointing after hauling the extra 15 pounds of rope and gear up the mountain. We all do risk calculus in our heads in these situations and sometimes the math says no. I was still pleased to be on Elder North and upgrade the register container. Looking over at the false summit, I spotted a better return path at least for that section. I packed up and headed down with much effort but no incident. If I ever return, I'll bring the right rope.

The best anchor I could find with my short rope.
Would you bet your life on it?

Palm grove further up Savador Canyon

One mylar souvenir

See Also:
Elder North Redux
Elder North (Richard Carey)