Sunday, September 22, 2024

Bernard Peak, Little Berdoo, and Peak 5435

Hiked: 9/19/2024
Route 2
Distance: 7 miles round trip on trail, use trail, and cross country
Summit Elevation: 5430' (Bernard), 5440' (Little Berdoo)
Prominence: 1040' (Little Berdoo)
Elevation Gain: 2048'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 1.6
Round trip time: 5 hours
Recommended water: 96 oz.
Parking/Fees: $35 National Parks or National Parks Pass
Difficulty: Moderate

Fires were burning in three of our local mountain ranges, shutting down large sections or entire wilderness areas. I looked further out, initially checking the southern Sierra and Sequoia. Weather there was iffy so I checked Joshua Tree. Crystal clear and cool enough. I aimed for the only two Sierra Club peaks in the park I hadn't already climbed: Bernard Peak (HPS #242) and Little Berdoo (HPS #239). I picked Route 2 that started on a 4WD section of Geology Tour Road. I had driven part of the road to Malapai Hill and remembered it being pretty good. Google suggested the shortest trip was up 4WD Little Berdoo Canyon from the south that turns into Geology Tour Road once you enter the park. I left early with a thought in the back of my mind that if the road proved too much, I had time to drive in from the north. It was too much. The first mile was on broken asphalt with an open shooting range on both sides. At sunrise, I rolled by a guy unloading his handgun on a refrigerator, hoping to avoid ricochets. On the other side were two guys with AR-15s shooting at human silhouette targets about 100m away. I got about 2 more miles up the rough canyon before I hit rocks I didn't think my stock 4x4 could handle. Not worth the risk. Discouraged, I returned to I-10, drove north of the mountains and came back at them. The NPS put up a scary sign where the unmaintained part of the road started. It was only two more miles to the starting point and the road was in good shape. A little deep sand, but I didn't engage 4x4, though I was glad to have it.

After 5 hours of driving, I finally set out in the open desert toward Bernard Peak, heading for the major gully. Little Berdoo was not visible. Small animals had dug burrows in the sand, tiny land mines that collapsed a few inches when I stepped on them. Annoying. Once in the canyon proper, I picked my way around brush and dry falls. A couple of falls required some class 2. There was a lot dried grass and weeds. I picked up a lot of foxtails, forcing me to stop half way up to get them out of my socks and boots. Route finding made progress slow. I exited the canyon just below Bernard, taking the final steep slope toward the highest of twin summits, Peak 5435. It was 5' higher than the official Bernard peak to the south. Both peaks had short scrambles over black volcanic rock. Both had nice views, though smudges of smoke blotted the sky toward San Jacinto and Gorgonio.







Bernard and Little Berdoo from Peak 5435

Bernard Peak summit


From Bernard, it was hard to tell which distant bump was Little Berdoo. From different angles, various bumps appeared higher than others. It got sorted on the way. After an initial drop, I tried to stick to the ridge line without giving up elevation. It wasn't far away, so I was on Little Berdoo in short order. Views southwest were better from Berdoo as the mountains fell away into foothills. I could see Geoglogy Tour road winding down toward I-10, glad I didn't have to exit that way. I followed a more direct route down and dropped into the canyon. It was easier going downhill. I coasted along the sandy wash and open desert, seeing the blue glow of the truck from a quarter mile away. I was tempted to climb some of the rock piles on the way out, but will plan a separate trip(s) for some rock climbing.













Tuesday, September 10, 2024

Bloody Mountain

Hiked: 9/5/2024
Distance: 13.2 miles round trip on trail, use trail, and cross country
Summit Elevation: 12552'
Prominence: 1234'
Elevation Gain: 5025'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 4.0
Round trip time: 9 hours
Recommended water: 128 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free on Laurel Lakes Road
Difficulty: Strenuous

Day two of my Bishop blast had my sites set on Bloody Mountain (SPS #141), a 12er south of Mammoth Lakes. The name refers to the blood red glow reflected from the rock in the morning. The effect is best viewed from Mammoth Lakes. Bloody can be a short hike (5.6 miles round trip) if you can drive up to the trailhead at 9900' on the unmaintained Laurel Lakes Road. I only made it to 8000' before vehicle-ending boulders embedded in the road convinced me to park at a turnout. Where I parked added more than 6 miles round trip to the hike, but it seemed less stressful to hike it vs. the exhausting drive and worrying about permanent damage to the truck. The road was in shade and I made good time to the trailhead. The trail started with switchbacks up to a pine forested plateau, then more switchbacks to the saddle between Laurel Mountain and Bloody Mountain.



Start of the trail

Bloody ridge from the saddle

There was no use trail visible, but one appeared when I got a few hundred feet up. The ridge was composed of small red and gray talus. It was very loose on the first slope, but got more stable higher up. There were many bumps to traverse and two major false summits. I took short breaks every other bump. The ridge seemed to go on forever. Most of the hike was steep class 1, but there were two places I'd rate class 2. Both of those places were where the use trial faded away. After sufficient grunting, I finally reached the summit and made sure there wasn't a higher point ahead before letting myself relax. I found two registers in a metal cylinder. Both were full, but I found an empty space in one to leave my autograph. A new register is needed. I found no marks of any kind. Views all along the ridge were extraordinary. To the east, the high lakes of Genevieve, Edith, and Dorothy made a splash. Mt. Morrison and White Fang rose up behind them. To the north, Mt. Dana and Gibbs were visible in Yosemite. Mammoth Mountain looked like small potatoes. After photos, I stretched out my quads, feeling some soreness from the previous day. Then, I plopped down in the sun to enjoy the moment.


Looking back at the saddle



Lake Genevieve, Edith Lake, and Lake Dorothy


False summit



Lost World Peak below, Yosemite peaks in the distance


Bloody summit, Laurel Mountain ahead




Descending

I started down the ridge, going over the bumps in reverse. When I got to the final slope, I wasn't paying attention. I looked down and saw a trail below and proceeded to ski down the talus. I got a few hundred feet down when I realized I couldn't see Laurel Mountain. I realized I was descending the wrong side of the ridge. I didn't want to scramble back up the loose talus, and cliffs prevented me from taking a side hill route to the correct side of the ridge. I decided to continue down and look for a way back to the Bloody-Laurel saddle. As soon as the cliffs gave out, I found a gully I could safely descend. Across the rocky basin below, I saw a trail that connected back to the saddle. I made good time across the basin and grabbed the trail, cruising the switchbacks up. The diversion cost me about 20 minutes and a bruised ego. I continued down the trail and stopped about 20' above the trailhead to reapply sunscreen. While I was sitting there, a dude driving a 4-wheeler motored up to the trailhead, got off his ride, and started peeing next to a tree. I thought about announcing my presence, but it would only have created an awkward scene. Instead, I sat there while he finished his business, got back on the 4-wheeler and continued up the road, never knowing I was there. I was glad to get back to the truck and off Laurel Lakes Road. Two 12ers in two days. Not bad for starting the year with a broken ankle.

Laurel Mountain from the wrong side of the ridge

Dropped down this gully

On the way back to the Bloody-Laurel saddle


Glider soaring silently above



Friday, September 6, 2024

Mt. George Davis (Mt. Thoreau)

Hiked: 9/4/2024
Distance: 9.3 miles round trip on trail and cross country
Summit Elevation: 12691'
Elevation Gain: 3577'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 2.8
Round trip time: 8 hours 15 minutes
Recommended water: 128 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at North Lake trailhead
Difficulty: Strenuous

When Leisa and I hiked to Piute Pass, we noticed a dominating peak on the other side of the lakes. My GPS named it Mt. Thoreau. When I looked it up later, most sites named it Mt. George Davis. I'll get to the naming controversy later. When I had a chance to come back and climb it, I approached it from the Lamarck Lakes trail instead of Piute Pass, though I think either would work. From the North Lake campground, there were two trails leading out of the campground. The left branch went to Lamarck Lakes. The first lake I reached was Lower Lamarck Lake. Mt. George Davis was visible from there. I followed a fisherman's trail around the north side of the lake, then other informal trails to the Wonder Lakes. At the third Wonder Lake, I crossed over to find a way through the low cliffs. There were a couple of ways through. Above the cliffs, I started up a difficult scree slope. It had a 40-50 degree angle and I tended to the stay near boulders and trees that could assist.


From Lower Lamarck Lake

From the third Wonder Lake




Slow, slippery scree slope

Final approach

After a slog up the scree, I took a break below the final scramble to the summit. I left my pole standing in the sand with plans to pick it up on the way back. I decided to ascend the most prominent gully. With minimal route finding, it stayed class 2. At the top, the summit was a short hop. With perfect weather, views were sublime. I had a front row view of Mt. Humphries and Mt. Emerson. Most of the Wonder Lakes were visible as well as the lakes along the Pass trail. I located the register in a metal box and found it titled Mt. Thoreau. Inside the front cover was an excerpt from the book written to argue for the name change. I found it quite interesting, though I have no preference on the name.

Here is what various entities call it as of 9/6/2024:
  • USGS: Peak 12691
  • Sierra Club: Mt. George Davis
  • Garmin: Mt. Thoreau
  • Mountaineers for Thoreau: Mt. Thoreau
  • Peakbagger: Mt. George Davis
  • Summitpost: Mt. George Davis
  • Open Street Map: Mt. Thoreau

After signing in, I took photos and flew the drone at the highest elevation I had attempted. With little wind, it performed admirably. I spent about 30 minutes total on the summit. It looked like the side to Piute Pass might also go as class 2, but I couldn't see all the way down. When I got off the summit, my pole was standing right where I left it. The descent was uneventful, though I stumbled down a slightly different way on the low cliffs and around the lakes. I was back to the trail before I saw anyone else.

Mt. Humphries from the summit

Mt. Emerson from the summit








Mt. Emerson from below



Other Reports:
Mount George Davis (Bob Burd)