North Dome and Indian Rock

Hiked: 9/25/2021
Distance: 11 miles round trip on trail and cross country
Summit Elevation: 7542' (North Dome), 8522' (Indian Rock)
Elevation Gain: 2576'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 2.0
Round trip time: 5 hours 35 minutes
Recommended water: 96 oz.
Parking/Fees: $35 National Parks Fee (one car for 7 days)
Difficulty: Moderate

Leisa and I were camping in Yosemite Valley for the weekend at Lower Pines Campground. We decided to hike to North Dome, one of the giant granite domes on the north side of the valley opposite Half Dome. We drove up Tioga Pass Road to the Porcupine Creek trailhead. The wide trail heads south through open forests of tall cedars and pines. The first quarter mile or so was paved. The trailhead was higher than North Dome, so much of the gain was on the way back. We didn't see North Dome until the last mile when we crested the valley rim. The trail has two sharp switchbacks to follow a ledge down a 100' wall, leading to the base of the dome. From there, it was an easy walk up. There was a benchmark on the high point stamped "Datum B". Most of the popular valley destinations lack registers, including this one. We continued to the end of the dome for closer views of the valley. Notable views include Half Dome, Mount Starr King, Clouds Rest, and Basket Dome. North Dome was a great place to hang out and several other parties arrived not long after. Smoke cast a haze across the valley, but we've been in worse this year.

North Dome from Yosemite Valley

Half mile from North Dome

Leisa with smoky Half Dome in background

Basket Dome and Clouds Rest in distance
We started back the way we came, taking a short cut to the trail. When we reached the junction with the Indian Rock trail, we took it and quickly arrived at the Natural Arch. We circled around behind the arch and found easier access to it. From there, we continued on a use trail on the east side of the ridge toward Indian Rock summit. Looking at GPS tracks posted on various web sites, it seems only half of the people who claim Indian Rock actually got near it. We passed a second rock cluster where the use trail ended, then open country got us to the base of Indian Rock. Some class 2 slabs reached the spine of Indian Rock, where two points on the north end looked about equal. I thought the point along the main spine was slightly higher and scambled to the high point using chunky holds. I found no marks or register. Leisa discovered a trail on Alltrails that appeared to be on the west side. She didn't want to return the way we came, so we started back on the west side looking for a trail. We continued along cross country until I thought I saw a trail 50' below. We dropped down to discover it wasn't a trail, then resigned ourselves to a cross country return. I enjoyed this off trail romp, Leisa not so much. We got back to the trail a little below the junction and hiked the rest of the way without indicident.

Natural Arch

Approaching Indian Rock

Summit block

Indian Rock summit

Clouds Rest

Open country on the west side heading back to the trail

Bobcat in the campground (from the day before)

Sundown Peak

Hiked: 9/19/2021
Distance: 7.9 miles round trip cross country
Summit Elevation: 3064'
Elevation Gain: 1544'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 1.2
Round trip time: 4 hours 35 minutes
Recommended water: 112 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at turn out on Highway S2
Difficulty: Moderate

With most national forests closed due to fire restrictions, I dared the desert before desert season. I wanted to finish by noon, so I aimed for Sundown Peak, an unofficial peak I missed while climbing Storm Canyon Mountain a couple of years ago. I parked at a turn out on highway S2. At 7:00 AM, it was already 80F. I cruised a couple miles of flat desert before reaching the base of Sundown. I considered going directly at it, but the upper ramparts looked sketchy and I wanted to avoid the sun as long as possible. Instead, I took the familiar gully up to the plateau shared among Sundown, Storm Canyon, and Square Rock Peak. This left only 400' of scrambling. By this time, the sun was mostly unavoidable.

Passing by Troutman Mountain, a 2019 conquest

Sundown from the plateau
The ascent was a fun scramble with some route finding. There were two blocks on the summit competing for the high point. I climbed what appeared to be the highest boulder first, 12' of class 3 friction. There was a metal post near the other boulder which was easier to surmount. I remember a metal post on Square Rock Peak, but no official marks on either. No register. I was feeling the heat, so only spent a few minutes on top before descending the same way. I ran out of water about half way across the flat section. My easternmost track was better since it went through holes in the two barbed wire fences. The temp when I got back to the truck was 95F. I am looking forward to more pleasant conditions in a month or so.

I think this is the highest block

View from the other block

Square Rock Peak

Storm Canyon Mountain

One of four mylar balloons I picked up on the way back

Mount Elbert, CO

State High Point
Hiked: 9/5/2021
Distance: 12.6 miles round trip on trail
Summit Elevation: 14433'
Prominence: 9073'
Elevation Gain: 4642'
Elevation Gain (in Empire State Buildings): 3.7
Round trip time: 11 hours
Recommended water: 132 oz.
Parking/Fees: Free at North Elbert Trailhead
Difficulty: Very Strenuous

Mt. Elbert is the highest mountain in Colorado at 14433' and second highest in the continental US. Since last year, my college roommate Jeff and I had been talking about climbing a big mountain together. Last month, he suggested Elbert since it had been on he and Tracie's bucket list. Leisa was up for it so we booked a flight over Labor Day weekend and met them there. I had watched the weather closely the week before and it was mostly grim: rain, t-storms and a dusting of snow. As the weekend approached, we got lucky with perfectly clear skies. There were multiple trails available, but we decided on the main North Elbert Trail. Recent reports said the road was closed a mile from the trailhead and that is what we found. You could park on one side of the road before the blockade. When we arrived at 5:15 AM, it was 35F, and many cars were already parked, pushing us another quarter mile back.

We spent the first hour in darkness, making up the distance to the trailhead and got a mile up the trail before dawn broke through the trees. The wide trail was in great shape. There was one long, steep section with no switchbacks below the tree line. I also referred to the tree line as the pee line -- the last chance to relieve yourself under the cover of forest. Jeff and Tracie had never hiked above 10000', but were handling the high altitude well. Leisa and I were comfortable above 10000', but hiking to 14000' was always a test. When we got above the tree line, we got a clear look to the towering false summit. It was a little discouraging at first, distant, rugged, and not the finish. We continued up the winding trail on the hulking north ridge while a steady 10mph wind kept things cold. At the base of the false summit, the trail marched directly up the ridge. Groups of hikers were visible at various points drawing the line of ascent. This was the steepest section of trail, braided with parallel use trails, loose dirt, and rocks. Near the top of the false summit, we took our last long break.

False summit, far away

Half way up the false summit

Jeff and Tracie top out on the false summit

Leisa and Tracie on the false summit, Twin Lakes below
The final section of ridge started at 13500', and featured a 2nd false summit. While the slope was not as harsh, each step up was taken with less oxygen than the last. Our progress slowed here to a 100-steps-and-rest pace. However, nobody suffered any serious AMS. Inspiring views of nearby mountains and lakes far below improved as we got higher. After endless trudging, we reached the crowded summit and found a register and reference mark. The benchmark was long gone. Jeff signed us in and we were all relieved and pleased with the success. After photos, we retreated to a large cairn below the summit for lunch.

Final section of ridge, 2nd false summit visible

Mount Massive: #2 in Colorado, #3 in the continental US

Elbert summit ahead

Jeff, Tracie, and Leisa just below the summit

The way down went slower than expected. We had to step carefully on the steepest parts of the ridge. The extra mile plus at the end also padded the round trip time. Leisa was strong the entire hike and smashed her altitude record again, I think for the fourth time this year. Jeff and Tracie completed the toughest hike of their lives, probably stronger for the wear. While Elbert is considered one of the easier 14ers, it's still a difficult hike at high elevation and only easier in a relative sense. With less gain and distance, I felt it was easier than Mount Whitney, but the main Whitney trail has no sections as steep as Elbert, the Rocky Mountain Highest.

Descending back to the tree line

Mount Elbert from the trailhead